2021 Chicane Merlot Malbec

We only have small plots of Merlot and Malbec planted in our vineyard, the vines for both of these varieties are 23 years old. As a result of this, we make 3 to 4 barriques in an average yielding year of our Merlot/Malbec blend.  These 2 varieties are some of our last grapes to be picked at our Granton estate, which is known for its warmer soils and milder climate compared to some of the cooler sites around Tasmania. We reduce the crop load in the cooler seasons to eliminate any under ripe tannins and we pick the grapes when the sugar in the fruit has reached close to 14 baumé.

These small parcels of grapes are hand picked then destemmed and spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts slowly starts after a short cold soak.  Once fermented the wine is left on skins for a time before the wine is drained and the skins are basket pressed.  We use a basket press for all of our red wines.  Basket pressing is a gentle process which reduces oxidation during pressing compared to a tank press.  This type of pressing tends to save the wine from any astringent characters on the finish that can be overly dry or sometimes bitter.

Maturation is the next important step.  The wine is barrelled down to our underground cellar where it is stored in French oak barriques for 16 months, with 30% new oak.  This wine is bottled under cork with no fining. Bottled in July 2022 our Chicane has been cellared for almost 2 years before release ensuring the wine is well-rounded and the tannins have softened ready to be relished.

The hue is dark scarlet velvet red and the nose is a sweet bouquet of wild bramble, mid summer rose, musk and molasses.  The palate tastes like raspberries that are so ripe they are falling apart, black cherries, plump blackberries, as well as aromatic cedar and spice. The front palate texture is silky and plush with depth and dry chalky tannins that have a pomegranate and rhubarb texture and after taste.  Merlot and Malbec varieties are graced with a full-bodied mouthfeel and length and, in these departments, this wine does not disappoint. The food match for this wine is game meat of all sorts, lamb, venison, mushrooms and vintage aged cheddar cheese. 

12/04/2024 at 2:00 PM Permalink

Growing Season 2023-2024 Report

The 2023 winter was the driest in many years which resulted in consistent wallaby and hare invasion, snacking on 1-2 tonnes of potential premium crops.  Crop damage was reduced once our fences were repaired.  Our flock of sheep, who kindly mow the grass over winter, were relocated to our western property at Hayes, 28km from Granton, in the last week of September.  This was due to the earlier than usual bud burst in early October which is approximately, 10 days earlier than the norm.

In general, the growing season of 2023-24 was dominated by warm overcast days with a major rain event of 20mm in the second week of January 2024.  We also experienced high winds at flowering in early December that may have contributed to poor flowering set in some of our more exposed plantings.  Yields, particularly in our Chardonnay vineyards are better this season compared to last but it is too early to tell if yields will exceed 2023.  Quality winemaking causes yields to be managed, if the weather does not do it for us.

Verasion commenced in the third week of January however lately the evenings and mornings have been very cool if not cold.  Overnight temperatures have gotten down as low as 10 degrees celsius, slowing ripening.  Delayed ripening is good in our case as it builds flavour whilst the sugar content increases.

Netting of the vineyard is expected to take place this week beginning the 5th of February. Depending on the weather we are expected to start harvest between the 20th and 26th of February with the intake of sparkling fruit.  The lowest yielding premium wines will follow soon after with Sasso Pinot Noir and then Single Block Pinot Noirs.

Generally speaking we are very happy with the current shape of our vineyards.  We have controlled the weeds much better this season with consistent blading and tilling, we managed to repair a lot of the damaged infrastructure as a result of machinery use rather than synthetic sprays.  Drip lines, irrigation sub mains, broken steel and wooden posts, trellis wires and some replants have mostly been ticked off the repair list.  Although repairs and maintenance of our vineyard are not the most exciting and glamorous parts of our business, they are worth the investment in producing an excellent result and quality wine.

06/02/2024 at 10:00 AM Permalink

2023 Pinot Gris

Our Pinot Gris is grown on a gravel base covered in red loam with patches of riverbed silt.  Facing north this soil forms part of the western bank of the Derwent river.  Our Pinot Gris plot was planted in 1991, the vines now being close to 30 years old.  The vine’s root system is now well established deep into the soil horizons below.  The gravel element infuses a perfumed aroma and contributes savouriness and minerality to the palate.  Southern Tasmania allows its crops a long and mostly mild and dry ripening period bestowing tiers of flavour.  This wine’s texture is generally attributed to barrel fermentation.  As well, the grape’s thick skins and the vine’s low yields, often unique to cool climate biodynamic viticulture, creates body.  Steve and Marco artfully and skillfully ferment the grapes into wine that is more akin to European Pinot Gris examples rather than those produced in Australia.  This is due to small batch winemaking where the grapes are processed as soon as they are picked and the must is fermented on full lees in puncheons (100% 500L French oak barrels) with a portion chilled and left on skins for 2 nights.  Colour and tannin are extracted by this cold soaking technique.  Rested over winter in the same puncheons, the wine is then bottled in early summer.

Tasting note: In the glass our 2023 Pinot Gris shows a slight golden blush. The nose builds with cut straw, rose perfume and spice.  The palate's texture is lucious with ripe fruit characters, apricot, pear and quince.  The ample tannin and alcohol cut the palate's sweetness, as the 2023 vintage is less dry than the past 2 vintages, and the finish is long and clean.  We recommend matching this wine with delicious white meat dishes, assorted cheeses and lightly sautéed summer greens.

09/01/2024 at 2:00 PM Permalink

James Suckling Top 100 Wines of Australia

Earlier in December we were included amongst the top 100 wines of Australia. We are so proud of the wines that were included in the top 100 where we had four wines listed, a wonderful way to finish 2023 and reward for effort for the entire Stefano Lubiana team. The tasting notes for each wine can be read below:-

#13  Single Block La Roccia 2021 - 97 Points  limited availability
'Often the cuvée I prefer of the pack due to the sterner carapace of tannin, compressing and corralling what, in so much of the New World, can be excessively sweet fruit. Not here! Rhubarb, cinnamon stick, tamarind and bluer fruits over red. The tannins are sublime, Firm, sure, but refined, sinuous, a little stern and long-limbed, stretching across the palate and guiding flavor into every crevice. From biodynamically grown grapes. Excellent, mid-weighted pinot with ample aging potential. Best after 2026. Superb!'

#40. Collina 2022 - 96 Points  available in mid-2024 
'Collina is a hillside selection from culled barrels to the tune of 1000 liters in all. Inaugural vintage under cork. For the better. Tight. Hazelnut, acacia, lees-derived sourdough and reductive flint and mineral grit. This drives extremely long, belying its mid-weighted composure. Wow! A strident, athletic expression. Extremely complex. It funnels its way long across the palate. Great chardonnay, this. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2026 or 2027.'

#47  Sasso 2021 - 96 Points  limited availability
'A confluence of the best performing, lower yielding rows across the three single sites. Thus, usually the first picked as ripening is expedited. Often Roccia-dominant, as in this instance. Blood plum, ferrous notes of ironstone, darker and meatier than the other cuvees, blowing white pepper and Asian five spice long across a forceful, filigreed finish. This is a graceful, richly flavored pinot, as much as it is a sublimely elegant one. The tannins, extremely impressive. I'd bury this. From biodynamically grown grapes. Best after 2026.'

#90  Single Block Ruscello 2021 - 95 Points  limited availability
'A refined nose, mute but shimmering with intent as it is clearly marked by depth and precision, with just the faintest allusions of fruit. This is a mid-weighted wine of structural torque, hinting pomegranate, persimmon, kirsch, forestry scents and rose hip after a workout in the glass. Perhaps the most enticing of the single site cuvees in its youth. A wonderful, incisive drive through the mouth, directed by beautifully managed tannins, taut but svelte at the same time. The tannins, the signature of the estate. A long life ahead. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.'

For the mid-2024 release of the 2022 Collina Chardonnay sign up to our mailing list to ensure you do not miss out on this wine. We are also excited and looking forward to releasing the 2022 Single Blocks and 2022 Sasso in mid-2024.

22/12/2023 at 10:30 AM Permalink

Spring in our Vineyards

The agony and the ecstasy of cultivating biodynamic vines at Stefano Lubiana Wines is not without its challenges, but there is nothing else we would rather do and it brings us much joy.  When we first arrived in pristine Tasmania, 35 years ago as a young couple, we could only dream that the vineyard would invoke so much passion in us and drive us everyday.  Most days I walk the dogs, and stop along the way to tuck, weed or even simply admire the vines and their exquisite view.  Spring is especially beautiful with the many shades of green drenching the landscape.  Vines are like magnets they draw you in and once you begin to touch it’s hard to let go.  I think the vines impart a gratitude, a healing and a calmness that is hard to find elsewhere, and it is an offering of thanks for looking after them.  The feeling would be similar to walking through and admiring a botanic garden, basking in the wonders of its colours that leave an impression on both the conscious and the subconscious.

I must admit, the lifestyle of a vigneron is very selfish and leaves little time for much else.  It is always a race to fit in as much as we can before the season changes, from pruning, to canopy management, to harvest and so the cycle continues.  Having a vineyard is like having a child - dearly loved, there is never too much love or time that can be given to it.

At the moment we are racing to tuck the vines up into the trellis, directing the lush, supple vertical growth.  Canopy management this way ensures the vines receive more sunlight and ventilation, securing the upcoming gradual and timely ripening as well as ensuring low disease pressure.

Terroir is the hero of Stefano Lubiana Wines’ story. In order to manage our soils we cultivate them.  We mostly adhere to the biodynamic calendar’s barren phase during cultivation.  Therefore, the day after the full moon, we commence working the soil with our Braun mid-mount cultivator with a blade attachment. After the next full moon we alternate with the Bruan star tiller.  The tiller flicks the soil  back to where the grass and weeds were removed by the blades.  The blade cultivator attachment has wings, similar in shape to an aeroplane wing, one is attached to each side of the tractor.  The blade action swings in and out between the vines cutting and pulling out some soil grass and weeds that have grown since the last till.  This pattern of tilling and blading repeats throughout the year preventing grass and weeds from thieving the moisture and nutrients from the soil.  Our homemade compost is full of bacteria and nutrients that replenishes the soils.  We dress the vineyard with this material just prior to flowering ensuring the vines have the nutrients they need to set fruit.

As well as the cultivator, a  mower is hitched to the back of my tractor.  It slashes the mid-row, this singular action doing two jobs in one pass - saving soil compaction, diesel and time.  An important benefit of  cultivation is its capacity to impart oxygen below the surface and releases minerals and fertiliser from compacted zones, essential for improving our poor soils.  Access to these elements stimulates the vines to push growth to the top of the trellis.  Tall healthy organic canopies photosynthesis at an optimum level growing and ripening high quality fruit that imparts complexity, poise and precision to the wine.  Tasmania’s cool climate ensures ripening happens slowly so that flavour and structure manifest along the way.

While I’m in the vineyard, Stefano is busy repairing machinery and fixing breakdowns, his problem solving aptitude and intuitive brain can apply itself to the workings of all sorts of technology.  He is irreplaceable, and we are forever grateful.  He also manages our little plot of, mostly, Chardonnay at our newly planted vineyard on Blacksnake Road.  He is regularly in and out of the winery to mentor our son Marco who is stepping up to the winemaking role. He helps Phoebe and I with marketing, admin and contributes to the overall wellness of our little wine business.  Stefano and I, Marco and Phoebe are only part of our team.  Christopher, Chris, Bradey, Molly, Tim, Adelia, Keira, Isabella, Joel and many others contribute to our triumphs daily.

When you share a bottle of Stefano Lubiana, appreciate and know we’re working every day to create wines that carry the essence of our unique terroir and the soul of our Tasmanian estate.

06/12/2023 at 8:16 AM Permalink

Deep Valley Malbec 2021

Deep Valley Malbec 2021

Malbec is originally a Bordeaux variety that is often used as part of the Bordeaux blend, is now grown all over the world. Although Malbec is used less in Bordeaux today, it is the primary variety in Cahors, France where it is locally known as Côt and produces dark and bold wines. Malbec, originally from France, is most well known now for being the key red variety in Argentina, where it grows in Mendoza at the foothills of the Andes. In the past Steve has grown a number of varieties to test their suitability to our Granton Estate. We are lucky enough to have a few rows of Malbec planted here in Tasmania.

Our Deep Valley Malbec 2021 is a single vineyard wine. Although our vineyard is in a cooler climate than Cahors and Mendoza our northerly aspect and proximity to the Derwent River allows us to consistently ripen grapes in Australia's coolest climate!

The Deep Valley Malbec 2021 is unfiltered and spends time in French oak barrels to ensure well integrated oak and softer tannins. A softer wine than its French and Argentinian counterparts however it boasts an aromatic nose with weight and power on the palate. There are notes of red plum, blackcurrant and black cherry. Black pepper, dried herbs and liquorice also feature. The palate is savoury with a harmonious blend of spices that include cinnamon and clove. A great match with chargrilled lamb ribs! The wine is drinking well now however, it will benefit from further cellaring. Cellaring potential 8+ years.

We are fortunate to produce and release this unique wine however, these releases are always limited in quantity due to small production. To secure the new Deep Valley Malbec 2021 please follow the link below.

16/10/2023 at 10:00 AM Permalink

Ned Goodwin Review

Recently, Ned Goodwin, a Master of Wine (one of 414 in the world!) visited the island state to write an article for James Suckling. The trip would take him all over Tasmania visiting vineyards and Cellar Doors. During his trip he stopped by Stefano Lubiana Wines and met winemaker, Marco Lubiana who showed him through our vineyard and wines. In Ned's own words -

'The first lightning strike during my trip was leveled by Stefano Lubiana and his imperious raft of biodynamic, single-site pinots, during my visit to his winery in Granton, in Derwent Valley.'

'The entire Lubiana range is stunning, with minimally invasive handling, a little more tension to the whites and a pulpier, easier-going nature when it comes to the reds. While I encourage you to stack your cellars with all of these Lubiana beauties while waiting patiently for eight to 10 years for them to soften, my favorite for now, as it so often is, is the Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir Tasmania La Roccia 2021. The carapace of tannin is beautifully refined, serving as a bulwark of restraint, staving off any excessive fruitiness from seeping across its barriers.'

During Ned's trip he reviewed a range of our wines with our La Roccia 2021 being scored the highest out of all wines tasted! Marco treated Ned to a sneak preview of the 2022 Collina which is slated for a mid-2024 release, when the wine will be in an even better place for release.

Single Block La Roccia 2021 - 97 Points, limited
'Often the cuvée I prefer of the pack due to the sterner carapace of tannin, compressing and corralling what, in so much of the New World, can be excessively sweet fruit. Not here! Rhubarb, cinnamon stick, tamarind and bluer fruits over red. The tannins are sublime, Firm, sure, but refined, sinuous, a little stern and long-limbed, stretching across the palate and guiding flavor into every crevice. From biodynamically grown grapes. Excellent, mid-weighted pinot with ample aging potential. Best after 2026. Superb!'

Collina 2022 - 96 Points, mid-2024 release
'Collina is a hillside selection from culled barrels to the tune of 1000 liters in all. Inaugural vintage under cork. For the better. Tight. Hazelnut, acacia, lees-derived sourdough and reductive flint and mineral grit. This drives extremely long, belying its mid-weighted composure. Wow! A strident, athletic expression. Extremely complex. It funnels its way long across the palate. Great chardonnay, this. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2026 or 2027.'

You can read the rest of the article from Ned via this link here. The rest of our wines that Ned reviewed are also available below.

Single Block Il Giardino 2021 - 96 Points, limited
'This is the most fragrant and graceful of the single site pinots at this fine address. Perhaps, the most precocious. A sumptuous nose of raspberry bon bon, lilac, pomegranate, and griotte. A smattering of garden herb strewn across a kit of sinewy tannins, growing in stature with time in the glass. Fresh, dense and multitudinous. From biodynamically grown grapes. There is an uncanny immediacy about this mid-weighted wine suggesting that it is drinkable now, but really it will be best from 2025.'

Sasso 2021 - 96 Points, limited
'A confluence of the best performing, lower yielding rows across the three single sites. Thus, usually the first picked as ripening is expedited. Often Roccia-dominant, as in this instance. Blood plum, ferrous notes of ironstone, darker and meatier than the other cuvees, blowing white pepper and Asian five spice long across a forceful, filigreed finish. This is a graceful, richly flavored pinot, as much as it is a sublimely elegant one. The tannins, extremely impressive. I'd bury this. From biodynamically grown grapes. Best after 2026.'

Single Block Ruscello 2021 - 95 Points, limited
'A refined nose, mute but shimmering with intent as it is clearly marked by depth and precision, with just the faintest allusions of fruit. This is a mid-weighted wine of structural torque, hinting pomegranate, persimmon, kirsch, forestry scents and rose hip after a workout in the glass. Perhaps the most enticing of the single site cuvees in its youth. A wonderful, incisive drive through the mouth, directed by beautifully managed tannins, taut but svelte at the same time. The tannins, the signature of the estate. A long life ahead. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.'

Grande Vintage 2011 - 95 Points
'A very cold year in these parts, as with most of the country. Great for fizz, as a result, befitting a cuvee that is only released when exceptional. Low dosage (3.8g/L) accentuates the chalky detail. A whooping 11 years on lees and one under cork, delivers toasty breadth and considerable power. Excellent nose of acacia, orange amaro and almond croissant, with a tensile bite across the emphatic finish. An Aussie fizz that really delivers. Drink or hold.'

Estate Chardonnay 2022 - 94 Points
'Sourced from meager, gravely soils. Hazelnut, white peach, a fleck of marzipan and pungent mineral undertones, with nothing overt. A very chiselled and taut opening act, belying extreme fruit intensity. This is an exceptional medium-bodied estate chardonnay of flavor, spunk and more sophistication than anticipated. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.'

Estate Pinot Noir 2022 - 93 Points
'A good portion of whole bunches given the benign vintage, particularly for red wines. Mid-weighted, sappy and juicy, with the bunchy tannins evincing just the right amount of grip without any notes of pickle, or mezcal. Think cherry amaro framed by gently verdant tannins and a gritty, salty finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.'

Pinot Gris 2022 - 92 Points
'A gorgeous orange to copper hue, attesting to gentle skin contact period and no color fining. Full barrel ferment confers further depth and ample texture. Rose hip, orange verbena, lilac and crushed musk stick, with orchard fruits lingering beyond. This is a wonderful gris, mid-weighted, detailed and apposite at the table. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.'

NV Brut Reserve - 92 Points
'A pinot noir dominant fizz, with a dollop of chardonnay. Just under two-years on lees, albeit, with significant older reserve wines drawn from oak, large and small, to bolster the texture. Chalk, subtle orchard fruit accents and a whiff of toast. Always a delicious, mid-weighted fizz that is easy drinking, as much as it is subtly sophisticated. Drink or hold.'

To purchase any of these wines please follow the link below.   

25/09/2023 at 10:00 AM Permalink

2022 Amphora Malvasia | 2021 Syrah

2022 Amphora Malvasia & 2021 Syrah

2022 Amphora Malvasia Biodynamic

Our 2022 Malvasia is medium gold in appearance. This handsome full bodied wine displays notes of elderflower, fuji apple, bosc pear, musk, marmalade, and aromas of freshly cut herbs such as thyme and oregano. The palate is rich and concentrated with a fine line of acidity. Honey, orange peel and green papaya flesh out the palate while soft well rounded tannins that gives a long and interesting finish. This complexity is due to the fermentation on skins and aging in Amphora.

This wine is rare gem that is a homage to Stefano's family roots of northern Italy region. Malvasia is not commonly grown in Australia, let alone found in the cool-climate region of Tasmania. 

The 2022 Malvasia can be paired with a variety of dishes ranging from seafood to white meats. Drink now or cellar for 6+ years.

2021 Syrah Biodynamic 

Our 100% Tasmanian grown and made 2021 Syrah biodynamic is an ode to the wines of the Northern Rhone Valley.

A cool-climate Syrah, that trades brashness for elegance because of its trove of naturally fine tannins. A lovely bouquet that has notes of violets, lilacs, blackcurrants and mulberry set over a backdrop of spicy oak and cedar as well as tobacco, these balance the wine's pretty first impressions. The palate is voluptuous and savoury without withholding flavour, texture or satisfaction given its cool-climate origin.

Drink now if you like buoyancy and tension in your reds or hold to see these components relax and flesh out with the benefit of further cellaring. Pair our 2021 Syrah with a juicy, marbled steak cooked slowly over a Hibachi grill to match this wine's brilliant elegance. Cellaring potential 10 years +. 

23/08/2023 at 10:00 AM Permalink

2021 Vintage

The 2021 growing season was met with a wet winter allowing the soil to take in vital water for the season ahead. Spring was thankfully dry with budburst occuring at the end fo August. Cooler temperatures during the ripening season allowed for steady accumulation of sugar and phenolics with the wines from 2021 showing bright acidity, perfect for aging. The vintage was also challenging as we were short staffed due to COVID-19. This will be a vintage we remember where all hands were on deck to pick and process the grapes!

16/08/2023 at 2:32 PM Permalink

2021 Sasso Pinot Noir

Our 2021 Sasso Pinot Noir has received a gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards! 

'Now in its 20th year, Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) has firmly established itself as the world’s largest and most influential wine competition. Respected globally for its rigorous judging process and world-class judges, DWWA results are trusted internationally by both trade and consumers.

The 20th edition of the competition saw 236 international wine experts, from 30 countries, including 53 Masters of Wine and 16 Master Sommeliers evaluate 18,250 wines from 57 countries.

'In the glass the 2021 Sasso shows a vibrant medium ruby in colour. It has a complex nose with notes of sichuan peppercorn, clove, red apple skins, orange and red cherries. The palate is distinctly fine and the fruit beautifully balances between powerful and restrained. Saffron, cut fennel, dried herbs, and pink peppercorns also feature on the palate. The bright acidity along with the silky mouthfeel provides the finishing touch. Pair the 2021 Sasso with truffle, roast duck or pork. Drinking beautifully now the wine will benefit from 10+ years of cellaring.'

The word Sasso means stone in Italian, chosen for this wine due to the predominantly stoney and gravelly soils we have in our vineyard. It is a single site wine coming from three distinct plots in our vineyard at Granton in the Derwent Valley. We are blessed to have such different soil types in our cool Derwent Valley site. This wine is the truest expression of our terroir.

The geology of the plots varies considerably from grey silty gravel over gravelly clay in the Ruscello plot to red chalky clay over limestone in La Roccia plot with the Il Giardino plot having a heavier greyish black clay topsoil over chalk and gravelly clay. The elevation of these plots is 100m above sea level with a 10 to 15 degree north to north east aspect to ensure a high level of phenolic maturity at harvest.

The early releases of Sasso mostly came from the Ruscello plot producing fine boned ethereal Pinot with immediate appeal and lovely softness. In the last three vintages we have introduced the other two plots into the blend to provide greater structure and palate length provided by the heavier soils.

The plots have a vine density of 4500 vines per hectare and are intensively manicured by hand with multiple passes throughout the year to ensure perfect sun exposure, cane positioning and fruit load. Green thinning is extensive for Sasso with a maximum yield of 4 tonnes per hectare, often less. This tiny yield ensures superb and profound concentration, a hallmark of this wine. These plots have been grown Organically/Biodynamically since 2010 and Stefano Lubiana Wines has been certified biodynamic since 2013.

With all the attention and hard work done in the vineyard each year the winemaking takes a backstep. With such clean ripe fruit, winemaking is a straightforward process with no fancy tricks or additions. Most ferments are 100% whole bunch with a few whole berry ferments for blending. All ferments are wild and occur in small open fermenters. The wines are matured in French barriques in our underground cellar for 12 months before bottling on site.

10/07/2023 at 9:37 AM Permalink