Six Generations in Every Bottle

There is a saying that great wine is measured not in vintages, but in generations. I was fortunate to be born into a family where wine was simply part of everyday life. Long before I understood fermentation or terroir, I was running around my father's winery in the Riverland, kicking barrels, asking questions and getting under everyone's feet.

Life was wonderfully uncomplicated. My older sisters had already left for boarding school, so my days were spent riding bikes, helping Mum fix whatever needed repairing, hunting rabbits with the family dog, and occasionally finding  mischief with the local kids. My grandparents lived with us, and one of my strongest memories is watching my grandfather blend wine at the kitchen table. Beside him was a weathered chart that fascinated me as a child. Years later, I realised it was a lunar calendar. Looking back now, I suspect that was the first seed of biodynamic thinking quietly taking root in my mind.

Growing up in Moorook, between Loxton and Kingston on the Murray River, wine wasn't a career choice it was our family's language. As fifth-generation winemakers, every season added another chapter to a story already well over a century in the making. Like many children of migrant families, my parents valued education deeply. Boarding school in Adelaide opened the world beyond our small town, followed by a year as an exchange student in Maryland, USA. Returning home, I studied Oenology at Roseworthy Agricultural College before heading overseas to learn from some of Europe's great wine regions.

Champagne changed everything. Working for Bauchet Pere et Fils (est 1920), I discovered not only the extraordinary precision required to make traditional method sparkling wine, but also a philosophy of patience and craftsmanship that has stayed with me ever since. Every bottle represented generations of accumulated knowledge. It was impossible not to be inspired. A second internship at Castello di Ama in Chianti reinforced another lesson. The world's most respected wines are inseparable from the places and families that produce them.

When I returned to Australia, I knew I wanted to build something that reflected those values. My father quietly supported that ambition, investing in traditional Champagne equipment that allowed me to begin my journey with sparkling wine while still working in the Riverland. It was a thoughtful gift of confidence from one generation to the next. In 1987 I met Monique. She shared my belief that if we were going to build something meaningful, we needed to do it together. That same year we leased my father's winery, producing wines for Australia's growing export market while continuing to make méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines, many of which were bottled for ‘The Wine Society’. We married in 1988. 

Then came the decision that would shape the rest of our lives, Tasmania. Long before Tasmania became one of Australia's most celebrated cool-climate wine regions, we believed its future was extraordinary. After an exhaustive search, we found our home at Granton: a north-facing hillside with free-draining soils, abundant sunshine, reliable water and virtually no frost risk. Before planting a single vine, we tested every inch of the property for heavy metals and chemical residues. Organic farming was never an afterthought, it was a condition of buying the land. We wanted healthy soils that could sustain not only our generation, but those still to come.

Today, biodynamics sits naturally alongside that philosophy. It isn't about chasing trends; it's about creating living vineyards capable of expressing place with honesty and vitality. 36 years later, we remain convinced that Tasmania was the right decision. The vineyard has matured, and so have we.

One of the great privileges of generational winemaking is that every generation inherits the lessons of those before it. Much like the finest family domaines, experience accumulates. Each generation refines rather than reinvents. Since 2018 our son Marco, and his wife Phoebe, play an increasingly important role in shaping the future of Lubiana wines. Watching the sixth generation step forward is one of the greatest rewards of our journey.

Our wines have evolved with the vineyard. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay remain at the heart of everything we do. At the pinnacle sits Sasso Pinot Noir, followed by our single-block expressions Ruscello, Il Giardino, and La Roccia, each revealing a different interpretation of our site. Estate Pinot Noir has been produced every year since 1996, reflecting the character of every vintage. While Primavera Pinot Noir continues to deliver remarkable generosity and value year after year. Chardonnay plantings have expanded to support both traditional-method sparkling wines and future single-site Chardonnay bottlings. Small parcels of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Malvasia remain largely reserved for our cellar door and restaurant partners, alongside tiny productions of cool-climate Syrah and our Merlot/Malbec blend, Chicane.

Every wine tells part of our family's story. Looking back, there were moments when the road seemed impossibly difficult. Building a vineyard from bare ground always asks more than you imagine. There were sacrifices, disappointments and years when perseverance mattered more than optimism. Would we choose the same path knowing everything we know today? Without hesitation. Because the greatest reward was never simply producing wine. It was creating something that could outlive Monique and I.

This limited Museum Collection captures that journey. Each bottle represents not only a particular vintage, but a chapter in six generations of family winemaking, from the lessons learnt around my grandfather's kitchen table to the biodynamic vineyards we are privileged to steward today. We hope that as you open each bottle, you taste not only the wine, but the generations behind it.

Cheers, Stefano (Steve) Lubiana
 

22/07/2026 at 12:00 PM Permalink

Introducing the 2025 Primavera Pinot Noir

The 2025 vintage is another reminder of why Southern Tasmania continues to produce exceptional Pinot Noir. After 36 years of growing Pinot Noir here in Tasmania we are inspired by what our remarkable sites in Granton and Cradoc can deliver year after year - wines of character, balance and consistency.

Surrounded by the ocean, Tasmania is naturally protected from prolonged extreme heat. Instead, our vineyards enjoy subtle warmth, with afternoon temperatures often reaching the high 20’s before cooling again in the afternoon as the sun dips and the afternoon breeze sweeps through the valleys. These moderate conditions allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly compared to other regions.

Pinot Noir reaches its finest expression when ripening is gradual. Here in Tasmania's southern latitudes, our long daylight hours provide extended sunlight without excessive heat. That slower journey to harvest builds flavour, preserves freshness and creates the elegance for which Southern Tasmanian Pinot Noir is renowned.

The 2025 Primavera Pinot Noir captures this season beautifully. The aroma is undeniably Pinot Noir, fragrant stock flowers mingle with amiable musk, spice and vanilla, finishing with a hint of dark citrus chinotto. Compared with the bright summer berry characters of the 2024 vintage, the 2025 offers greater savoury complexity and aromatic depth.

This vintage is especially rewarding displaying more savoury pinot noir. In many ways, the 2025 Primavera leans more towards a village style of French Pinot Noir. The palate is concentrated yet beautifully composed. Brooding black cherry fruit is framed by firm, mineral tannins, all wrapped in a generous, plush texture. Layers of blackberry and raspberry bring energy and drive, carrying the wine through to a long and balanced finish.

This is a wine that reflects not only a memorable Tasmanian summer, but also the confidence that comes from decades of understanding our vineyard sites and Tasmania’s climate. We hope that, enjoy this wine with your next meal, you'll be reminded of those long warm, carefree summer days we are so longing for as we write to you this winter!

10/07/2026 at 12:10 PM Permalink

Behind the Scenes: Harvest at Our Biodynamic Winery

At our biodynamic estate we often see Easter as more than a holiday, it is a part of harvest, often falling when we are picking grapes or fermenting wine. While it is an essential time for work, Easter is also a time for celebration and sharing a meal. 

Harvest starts before sunrise, when the vineyard is still wrapped in dewy air. This is the moment we’ve been working toward all year, and suddenly everything is alive with purpose.

This season, our small but mighty team is made up of four dedicated winemakers, Stefano, Marco, Jordan and Louis. Four eager interns, Jake, Emilie, Simon and Henri. Our experienced vineyard crew of Lorenzo, Liam, Ross and Josh lead the team of 30 pickers.  Each person plays a vital role in bringing this vintage to life, Phoebe & Monique support the entire team.

Harvest days start early. Our vineyard team hand-picks ripe bunches row by row.  We are in tune with the moon and harvest according to taste and ripeness. The perfection and obsession of growing our grapes takes an enormous amount of work, knowledge and foresight.

Once the fruit arrives at the winery, the pace shifts from the vineyard's rhythm. The winemakers take over, guiding each parcel of fruit with care and intuition. Decisions of when to press, how to ferment, and what to leave untouched are made with clarity. Every vintage is different, and that’s part of the excitement.

In the winery, our interns quickly learn that harvest isn’t as romantic as it is portrayed on social media.  It's long hours, but it’s also the most immersive way to understand the many steps in producing high quality wine.

For us, biodynamic winemaking isn’t just a method, it’s a philosophy. It’s about respect for the land, for the people who work it, and for the wine that eventually finds its way into your glass.

When you open one of our bottles, you’re not just tasting grapes in their most pure form. You’re tasting the expression of crisp early summer mornings, beautiful pinky blue early evening skies, and the many untold unique characters of this season.  If you’d like to experience this vintage as it unfolds, our current releases offer a glimpse into that story.  Each bottle is a reflection of the same care, rhythm, and place we have brought to your table for many years.

30/03/2026 at 3:15 PM Permalink

Harvest 2026 Update

Harvest is just around the corner. We traditionally begin picking in late February or early March, depending on the season. As always, we start with our low-yielding sparkling fruit once it reaches 10–11 baumé.

This year has been an unusually cool season. Spring brought very little frost, but it was windy and showery. Summer so far has been cool and somewhat patchy, with a mix of overcast days with the occasional burst of warmth above 25°C.

Thankfully, frost impact across our vineyards has been minimal. As Stefano often says ‘site is everything’ and our Granton vineyard is a naturally safe site because it sits between 50 and 150 metres elevation, with a north facing aspect. In addition rocky, stony soils warm during the day and retain heat overnight. The Derwent River flows from the west and sweeps south, surrounding the vineyard on three sides. This allows cold air to drain away, while the river’s high flow rate, originating from Lake St Clair, helps carry cold air downstream and out the rivermouth to the sea.

Our Cradoc vineyard in the Huon Valley requires more active frost management. The Huon Valley is on average 2°C cooler than Granton and sits closer to sea level. While the vineyard fronts the Huon River at California Bay, it only has around 20% river frontage compared with Granton’s 90%. The gravelly soils act as a natural heat bank, but we also use portable frost fans positioned to push cold air towards the river, where the airflow carries it downstream.

Summer 2026 has been milder than last year, though somewhat inconsistent. One week we see mid-20°C temperatures, the next high teens with overcast skies and scattered showers. Growth has tracked slightly behind average, in other seasons we typically hedge before Christmas, but this season we began around 14th of January.

In early February, the weather has settled into a warmer, drier pattern, which is typical for this time of year. Our warmest days usually arrive through February and into March. Consequently these are some of the best months to visit Tasmania.

We have completed fruit thinning, a standard practice that ensures the crop level matches the season’s ripening capacity. This helps us achieve balanced yields and wines with concentration, flavour, natural acidity and structure.

Netting is underway, and in around four weeks we expect to pick the first grapes of the season. We have an experienced team and with harvest nearly here, we’re ready!

26/02/2026 at 9:00 AM Permalink

Selector Magazine Feature

In August last year, we had Selector Magazine visit us and interview Stefano. Upon reading the article released this week, it has made us reflect on our journey over 35 years. From ambitious and challenging beginnings, through decades of hard work and determination, to now making wines of distinction and every year in pursuit of making the best wine from the vineyard.

There were delightful quotes from industry stalwarts Michael Hill Smith MW, James Halliday and Jancis Robinson MW. To read the full article follow the link to Wine Selector's website below.

23/01/2026 at 11:00 AM Permalink

2023 Sasso Pinot Noir & 2023 Collina Chardonnay

Knowledgeable wine consumers say the best examples of Australian Pinot & Chardonnay are produced in Australia’s coolest climates.  Both chardonnay & pinot can be grown anywhere; we believe Tasmania is where you will unearth the truest diamonds.

Generational winemakers Stefano and Marco produce the purist expression of these wines from vines grown with sustainable inputs, in Tasmania’s pristine, cool climate, from the same fields for decades.  The father and son team are devoted to biodynamic viticulture on a site that has proven to produce distinctive wines with presence, poise and brilliance.

Seasonal influences create variations in each vintage.  This is normal.  The French, compared to Tasmanian winemakers, sometimes experience larger climatic swings.  They manage this through a classification system.  At our Granton Estate the climate has proven consistent over the decades, assisted through biodynamic management.

This farming system produces and promotes an underground sponge like phenomenon that protects the vine and its roots from any intense climate anomalies.  In addition the close proximity of the Derwent river regulates the microclimate with its cooling capacity during summer and its warming ability during the springtime.

Our Collina Chardonnay & Sasso Pinot Noir are brimming with concentration of flavour and elegance yet they embody powerful structure that allows for cellaring.  It is their purity, tannin profiles, palate tension and perfectly supported oak regime that transforms these wines to an elevated level.  Wines with effortless mouthfeels that bestows ultimate luxury to the consumer.  They are a reflection of our unique vineyard site that responds intimately to the huge amount of hand tending, the traditional winemaking intuition that was imparted by previous generations as well as superior oak quality that is matched perfectly to these wine’s composition.

Read the recent reviews for both premium flagship selection wines below:-

2023 Sasso Pinot Noir Biodynamic

Halliday Wine Companion, Dave Brookes - 96 points
James Suckling, Ryan Montgomery - 96 points

"Deeply perfumed and lifted, with aromas of dark cherries, wild blackberries, rhubarb and orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of cranberries, dried herbs, graphite and blueberry bush. Quite austere and focused... Delicious."   Ryan Montgomery - James Suckling

2023 Collina Chardonnay Biodynamic

Halliday Wine Companion, Dave Brookes - 95 points
Vinous, Angus Hughson - 95 points
Wine Advocate, Erin Larkin - 96 points
James Suckling, Ryan Montgomery - 96 points

"The incredibly impressive 2023 Chardonnay Collina radiates strength and detail. The nose offers waves of oat bran, peach skin, flowers and nectarines, with understated savoury notes in the background. Explosive flavors follow, firm acidity lending precision and definition through to a fine finish of exceptional length. This is a very serious wine that will only get better with time."   Angus Hughson - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

26/11/2025 at 12:00 PM Permalink

2024 Pinot Gris journey from vineyard to winery

Imagine you are a little bunch of Pinot Gris grapes. It is February 2024 and the growing season is closing.  The days of careful canopy management and the regular tingling sprays of sulphur mist, arresting disease, are complete.

We bathe in warm sunlight.  The human feeling is akin to lying on grass or on warm sand at the beach.  We are absorbing the surroundings and allowing time to pass in carefree space.  Our small berries are starting to swell with thick, sweet juice.  We are shrouded in protective white netting.  From a distance, it appears as a cloth but up close, the nets resemble a bride's vale.   The netting is a protective shield from the birds.

It is only a few weeks until we will be picked.  The vine rows are alive with the hues of lush jade greens, with shades of lime green waxing and waning when the dappled light pierces our canopy in the gentle afternoon breeze.  The expansive vibration of the vineyard is high, and the humidity is now stable as we wait for vintage.

Harvest day has arrived and it is 6.30AM The tractor crew is cautiously removing the nets and we can see the car headlights of the picking crew arriving.  Soon we will be harvested by youthful hands and transported to the winery.  We are as cold as the morning, 11 degrees celsius.

At the winery, we are tipped onto the sorting table then crushed and chilled before we reach the press. We rest chilled for 3 days to release the tannins from our skins.  Once pressed, our juice is sent to the dark underground cellar where it is poured into puncheons.  As pure and vibrant juice, it waits for the natural yeasts to ignite then slowly and calmly, it ferments under the careful watchful eyes of the winemakers.

Enjoy our wondrous journey with a glass of chilled Stefano Lubiana Pinot Gris with your favourite food.

12/09/2025 at 9:00 AM Permalink

2024 Primavera Pinot Noir - 31st Vintage

We often hear that consistency is what our customers love about this premium Tasmanian Pinot Noir.  If Primavera Pinot Noir wine had a motto it would be ‘numquam confundit’, never disappoint! Made annually since 1993, a showcase of vibrant berry fruits balanced with velvet tannins and supportive oak.  Strawberries, cherries and raspberries dominate the nose. They are the sort of berries that are grown in Tasmania and sold on the side of roads in little tubs.  Ripe plump fruit that is lovingly picked daily by its growers. Berries with an intoxicating aroma, full & mouth watering flavour and racy juicy acid.  

Knowing one day we would ultimately move to Tasmania from South Australia in pursuit of our winemaking dream, to find the perfect vineyard site. It was our experience that we noticed how everything tasted more delicious in Tasmania, an experience that many Island holiday-goers and locals would resonate with. The fresh cows milk, bread, meat, vegetables, fruits and nuts all taste next level.  This we believe is mainly due to the number of small dedicated master growers and the very long growing season that Tasmania offers more than any other Australian State. Autumn and winter can arrive early, and quickly in Tasmania.  Seasoned growers know their limits as to how much they can ripen successfully without being caught out with unripe produce by being in-tune with their crops accordingly.

Primavera Pinot is and always was about capturing fruit whilst not forsaking structure and length.  Pinot noir not only requires a true cool climate, but discipline and careful attention in the vineyard as well.  We are very conscious of crop levels and how they impact wine quality if they do not reach their intended sugar and phenolic ripeness.  We make sure we manage the yield to avoid diluted flavour and thin body while preferencing and illuminating the luscious fruit component.

Primavera Pinot is your go to wine to have on hand for any occasion.  A shared bottle or gift that is sure to please.  Enjoy with all cuisines and on any occasion.  A wine that might tempt the ‘white wine only drinkers’ and is almost certain to be appreciated by a ‘burgundy hound’ for its purity and clarity.

22/07/2025 at 10:00 AM Permalink

2013 the 1st year of Biodynamic Certification

This generous and elegantly presented méthode traditionnelle wine was made 12 years ago.  In my memory, the 2013 vintage, it was a well above average year for both quantity and quality.

In 2013 Stefano already had 21 years of experience of making sparkling wine from our Granton Estate. The first ever Grande Vintage was released in 1995. More intuition, confidence and vast experience is exhibited in this unique current release Grande Vintage. Earlier in 2013 we became certified biodynamic after 3 years of conversion, making this 2013 release of Grande Vintage certified biodynamic. 

I remember the feeling of being very proud and pleased with ourselves, being certified biodynamic/organic is no easy feat. It was an ambitious and important goal we set out to accomplish in 1992, soon after buying the property.  Biodynamics is the solution to making synthetic free wine.  It brings life force from the cosmos to the soil and vines, this is then gently guided by hand with minimal input into luxury wines. 

The general consensus and our experience is - farming certified biodynamically on a commercial scale is a difficult choice, but well worth the dedication.  The adventure, inspiration and growth that comes with this farming model brings so much goodness.  Intellectually, biodynamics can be easily understood.  It is the physical implementation and the practical problem solving aspects that demands constant attention from the vigneron and vineyard team.

The light and essence in the cosmos, through the instrument of biodynamics, has been captured in the 2013 Grande Vintage, producing a graceful expression of sparkling wine that can be enjoyed now. We celebrate success with biodynamic farming and we hope our 2013 Grande Vintage is a wine that you can celebrate with your successes.

The nose of the 2013 Grande Vintage is reminiscent of lemon, mineral and a hint of fresh honeycomb. There is a fine bead and delectable mousse. The palate is lithe with bright lemon, jazz apple and winter nelis pear with balanced acid. Hazelnut meal, honey nougat and marzipan back up the fresh first impression carrying into a long finish. Drinking beautifully now this wine can also benefit from further bottle ageing.

27/06/2025 at 12:00 PM Permalink

The many facets that make a great Chardonnay

An analogy that you may have heard us refer to in the Cellardoor is that Collina Chardonnay is like a diamond with its many facets.  The diamond’s technical term for brilliance is ‘super ideal’ with ‘D Clarity’, ‘flawless’ and a higher weight or ‘carates’ all highly desired.  If there was a wine scale like the diamond scale then the Collina is a brilliant diamond.  The Estate Chardonnay is on the next class down with the Primavera Chardonnay following closely behind. Many of our customers will understand this analogy - in each Chardonnay we craft, our goal is to integrate as many of these 'facets' as possible while maintaining clarity and ensuring no single element overshadows the others. We aim to make wines of balance that shine with many facets.

This meticulous process begins in the vineyard, where different chardonnay clones are grown and it is the viticulturist's job to cultivate each to maximise their strengths.  For example one plot might be shoot thinned to control vigour, while another is not. Similarly we pluck the vine’s leaves nearing harvest on the eastern side of a row to optimise sunlight exposure - whereas in a less vigorous row, no leaf plucking is done to prevent sunburn on the delicate berries. Each plot of chardonnay, and sometimes rows within a plot, might be harvested on different days. We are not only looking for sugar ripeness but phenolic ripeness as well.

The grapes for chardonnay at our winery are always whole bunch pressed.  All juice is fermented on full solids.  We use a number of different French oak coopers for our chardonnay, we use barriques for the more premium wines and a mixture of barriques and puncheons for our Primavera Chardonnay. This allows the winemaking to build a facet with more or less oak depending on what the wine requires, we are always in harmony with what the vintage requires having crafted chardonnay from our site for over 3 decades.

Malotic fermentation is another tool we use to create a textural facet.  There is a more creamy texture in our more premium chardonnays compared to our Primavera Chardonnay.  This is deliberate - our Collina Chardonnay and Estate Chardonnay yielded at 3 and 5 tonnes/ha, respectively, compared to the Pirmavera Chardonnay that yielded 7 tonnes/ha.  Lower yields add more tannin and body, allowing for more creaminess to be included without forsaking balance. For the Primavera, where we aim for a fruitier profile, we only allow 80% malolactic fermentation to suit this wine’s profile.

Biodynamics offers another facet in so much that wine is free of pesticides, fungicides and artificial fertilisers.  In addition biodynamics, according to Rudolf Steiner, draws to the vineyard a spiritual connection to the cosmos creating harmony within the vineyard.
 

27/05/2025 at 11:00 AM Permalink