Spring is around the corner

Pruning is coming to a close with all cuts made and tying down is approximately 80% complete. The cover crop seeded in Autumn is slowly starting to grow thanks to warmer nights and sunnier days.

Pruning of the close-planted Pinot Noir is best described as a tale of ecstasy and agony. The view while doing this work is exquisite, the sun is warm and glorious. The vines are only 40cm from the ground so there is much bottom sitting and constant up and down moving from one vine to the next on a steep slope. The only other option is dry tobogganing. The vineyard plot has a density of 11,000 vines per hectare that translates to a planting of 0.8 meters between vines by 1.1 wide rows.

Winter 2022 has been wetter than usual and we’re expecting this to continue into spring. We are prepared, already having purchased a second sprayer last year. This ensures when the window is open, we can operate 2 sprayers instead of one ensuring the job is done on time. Certified biodynamic operators, like ourselves, only have the option of using sulphur, both dusting powder and wettable, applied every 7 days in the peak growing season. We are unable to use systemic fungicides that have a protection period of 14 days. Biodynamics has an operating ceiling for copper use to control downy mildew so we use it sparingly.

As I write this blog we are busy taking cuttings. Some for replants in our recently planted close planted vineyard, some for replants in our established vineyard. Cultivating machinery, inexperienced machinery operators and vermin are responsible for the misses. Fortunately, there are not many replants and the spring rain helps these replants become established.

Recently we bought 2 new heards of sheep. These lovely woolley creatures do an excellent job of eating down the grass around the trunk. Biodynamics prohibit the use of herbicides; the alternative is cultivation. A more expensive and a heavier footprint on the environment. This year we have been blessed with many lambs, including at least 10 twin births and 1 set of triplets. One ewe lost a twin due to a breach birth.  When this happens, the ewe is sometimes overwhelmed and believes no lamb was born at all, subsequently rejecting the surviving lamb. When we first purchased our property, we bought 2 Murray Grey heifers who were joined. Unfortunately, one calf was stillborn.  Distraught, we sought advice from the farmer we purchased the property from and he told us to purchase a bobbie calf (the sale yard was only 2km from us) put eucalyptus oil on the mother’s nose as well as the calf’s nose and behind.  The scent overrides any doubts the mother might harbour and she accepts it as her own. This trick worked and the bobbie calf not only survived but thrived. We used this same tactic this week with the mother with one surviving twin and they are thankfully united.

During the colder months we have bottled the 2021 Estate chardonnay and disgorged our Brut Reserve NV ready for a spring released. If you missed my last blog you can catch it here, An American Odyssey, its all about our recent trip to the United States of America.

Last week we purchased a tow and blow frost fan to help mitigate frost at our vineyard in the Huon Valley. This equipment will reduce our need to burn oil (canola) pots and light wet hay to produce smoke at all hours of the night to mitigate frost settling on the young tender shoots.

We have a new little vineyard (exciting), just over 2ha, being planted at Blacksnake Road Granton, the trellising is finished and the irrigation is being installed. Depending on the weather we intend to plant before the end of September. Plantings are mostly chardonnay ear-tagged for our, Icon, Collina Chardonnay and some for sparkling wine fruit. 

That’s all from Stefano Lubiana Wines.  Look out for our next blog and share our news with your friends, colleagues, family or anyone who loves Tasmanian premium wine.

25/08/2022 at 10:20 AM Permalink

An American Odyssey

It has been, what feels like, an age since Steve and I first visited, separately, the mighty United States of America.  Steve has very fond memories, some potentially ‘naughty’, as a teenage exchange student spending 12 months in Salisbury, Maryland.  Whereas I, as an 19 year old ‘angel’, was lucky enough to visit my sister whilst she was stationed (finance) in New York City.  Steve can never forget the taste of Eastern shore crabs while I could not get or eat enough pizza by the slice.

During July Steve & I travelled to the USA for 2 reasons.  One was to taste as many Pinot & Chardonnays from the many talented winemakers and vineyards based on the West Coast.  Starting at Portland, Orlando driving down to Nappa Valley, California. Nappa Valley is located just outside of the, very cool, yet sunny San Fransico.  The second purpose of our trip was to meet with potential wine importers, to entice sales of our wine to a wine loving nation.

We were struck by the extravagant beauty of America’s west coast.  Flying over the countryside and driving inland south revealed the expanse of agriculture as well as the massive dividing ranges.  America is experiencing a significant drought displayed for all to see as we drove past Mount Schaffner dam, which was dry in some places, and we estimated 80% below the waterline. 

American people are so friendly, polite and kind, and the wine and food was exceptional.  We visited mostly small wine producers with the exception of one large winery called Seghesio Family Vineyards where we tasted mostly Zinfandel.

We discovered many of the small winemakers operate out of factories dotted in amongst city fringe in the light industrial zones.  Their wineries being mostly large sheds with a cordoned off area, tastefully decorated, for tastings and sales.  Almost all visits to wineries were by appointment only, which we found very frustrating due to our time pressures but understandable given the torrid time Covid has inflicted on America.  The cost to visit winemakers was very expensive, in the $100+/per person range, compared to our experience here in Tasmania (some tasting fees were part credited against a puchase).

Vineyards can be large and from what we understood the grapes are sold to a number of winemakers rather than one destination.  This may be so that the grower does not have all their eggs in one basket.  In 2020 depending on the region many grapes were destroyed due to smoke taint. 

Regarding distribution, that is a work in progress. Hopefully we will find our match in the near future.  Fingers crossed!  Two weeks in America chalked down to a great experience.

10/08/2022 at 11:24 AM Permalink

New Releaes | 2019 Chicane Malbec / Merlot Biodynamic

Malbec & Merlot are Bordeaux grape varieties used in the production of our 2019 Chicane.  Whilst we have been growing Bordeaux varieties for many years, production of these wines is small unlike Pinot Noir & Chardonnay that dominate the Stefano Lubiana Wines portfolio.

Pinot noir is one of the most graceful red varieties grown around the world compared to Malbec & Merlot that are more structured in their design and in most cool climates display deeper longer tannin chains compared to the Pinot Noir variety.

That being said, here at Stefano Lubiana Wines our Chicane is produced in a very elegant style where the tannins are very soft but persistent and the fruit buoyant.  Aromas of mulberries, plums, blackberries and boysenberries feature on the nose and these fruit flavours also populate the palate.  Fleshy, fruity textures with juicy natural acids excite the tastebuds whilst the fine tannins give structure and length and helps dry out the fruitiness adding savouriness to the finish.

The decision to plant Bordeaux varieties at our Granton vineyard came about due our vineyard being situated on an estuary.  Soil types that accompany these sites are usually poorer in fertility, gravelly and warm easily creating perfect conditions for growing Merlot & Malbec.  Originally we trialled Cabernet and Cabernet Franc but found we could not ripen these varieties consistently. 

Being able to grown both Pinot Noir & Malbec/Merlot offers more wine choices and at the same time provides a fantastic challenge for Steve who loves nothing more than exercising his wine brain.

We are closing in on completing harvest and we have experienced very mild long autumn days where rain has been almost absent, reducing disease pressure, and most importantly limiting stress for our vineyard team.  The next grapes that will be picked just before or after Easter are Malbec, Merlot & Malvasia. 

Enjoy the 2019 Chicane with your favourite meat dish, rustic been stew or cheeses you love the best.

Happy Easter! 

15/04/2022 at 9:58 AM Permalink

New Release | Vintage 2020 | Estate Pinot Noir | Estate Chardonnay|

Some of you will have purchased and will be enjoying our recently released ‘premium’ biodynamic Primavera Pinot Noir & Chardonnay wines, our ‘iconic’ Sasso Pinot Noir.  The time is now ripe to release our biodynamic ‘flagship’ 2020 Estate Pinot Noir & Chardonnay wines.

These two varieties are known as the Queen of whites and the King of reds. The excellent 2019-20 growing season has produced wines of outstanding quality. Viticulture for these wines is very similar to previous vintages.  Low yields in the vicinity of 5 tonnes/ha with good strong canopies ensuring the fruit slowly ripens in a stress free environment.

In vintage 2020 slight changes to winemaking were made to include more whole bunches for the pinot noir introducing more aromatics to the nose and more fruit to the front palate.  For the chardonnay we have bumped up the percentage of small format new oak a little and introduced a new Burgundian cooper from the Rully region.  The oak providing some subtle complexity that marries well with our fruit. These small changes have resulted in a deepening of the palate whilst maintaining minierality and a linear acid profile.  Otherwise, all other quality profiles remain in place.

We have been making Chardonnay & Pinot Noir at our Granton vineyard since 1993.  The excitement, thrills & spills have never diminished as we strive for authentic terroir driven wines.

The beauty of making the same wine from the same fruit for over 30 years means the relationship between the winemaker and the terroir is very close.  The winemaker is constantly learning and responding to what the terroir is expressing through the fruit leading to one outcome, well-balanced wines that are faithful to their sense of place.

2020 Estate Pinot Noir biodynamic is aromatic on the nose, a combination of cherry blossom and the smell of the forest after rain. More complexity will show with maturation.  The palate is rich and perfectly balanced between fruit sweetness and tannin grip.  The length of the wine persists and the finish is dry.

2020 Estate Chardonnay biodynamic is equally as lovely as the pinot noir. It has a bouquet of meal, sherbet & lemon blossom and a soft scent of spice from well-matched new oak.  The palate is rich, creamy and intense with a tight long finish.

24/03/2022 at 2:55 PM Permalink

New Vintage | 2020 Sasso Pinot Noir (26 Dozen) and 1999 Prestige Brut (8 dozen)

2020 Sasso Pinot Noir, 26 dozen, and 1999 Prestige Brut, 8 dozen.

Thinking of these two wines, the first noteworthy detail is these are definitely status wines.  Two icons of the highly desirable and respected, Stefano Lubiana Wine’s brand. They both speak of place, the environment in which they were grown and vinified or as the French say, Terroir, and both radiate precision, clarity and tension.

The 1999 Prestige Brut has had the luxury of decades to evolve, slowly unveiling its inner components that have now settled in to a well-formed dramatic sparkling wine.  Maturation at this level is not common amongst the sparkling wines produced in Australia.  Testament to the decision and foresight of Steve & Monique to swim against the tide and relocate their wine business from South Australia to Tasmania.  Proof that Tasmania, with it coolest of climates and chalky soils, can produce stars of the highest calibre.  Speaking of stars, they have aligned to deliver 1999 Prestige a one of a kind sparkling wine.  Very few Australian Sparkling wine makers can claim to match this standard.  A wine that will be appreciated amongst the most discerning connoisseurs and a potential worthy adversary to the best sparkling wine that Champagne can produce!

Enjoy with caviar dip, oysters natural, or a cheese soufflé.

2017 was the most recent release of the Sasso Pinot Noir produced at Stefano Lubiana.  So it is with much pomp and ceremony that we release the 2020 Sasso Pinot Noir.  It will delight its admirers to no end with its velvety blend of dark cherries and subtle spice.  A satisfier to all the senses, especially to the eyes with its dark rich crimson red, to the palate with the sensation of silky rich chocolate and, to the nose, a bouquet of the sweetest smelling reddest roses.  It would not be out of place in the company of some of Burgundy’s finest Pinot Noirs.

Here is wine where no amount of expense has been spared in yield reduction, oak selection and deployment, winemaking expertise and experience and very importantly a luxurious maturation.  A lucky and prized parcel of wine that has enjoyed the loving care, attention and consideration of its maker.

Try this exceptional Pinot Noir with crispy roast duck, Wagyu beef or a burnt butter sage gnocchi.

06/03/2022 at 1:54 PM Permalink

2020 Riesling Biodynamic

2020 Riesling Biodynamic

Rieslings grown in Tasmania are framed with endless racy acid, a consequence of very cool nights that blanket the most southern landscapes of our magnificent country.

The 2020 growing season was dry, warm, and mild. Ripening fruit beyond perfect, swelling its aromas of mandarin, orange blossom, lemon curd and musk-sticks.  For many years we’ve worked hard in the vineyard to grow greater/taller Riesling canopies that protect bunches from the sun, ensuing reduced phenolics whilst promoting pretty aromas and palate textures of chalk, soft juiciness, and silky light tannins.

Grapes are always picked in the cool of the morning, pressed and the juice then fermented in large format oak.  The wine is left on lees for an extended period to gather even more flavour & complexity, at the same time tempering angles and presenting layers of tannins. Bottle aging is for many months, relaxing its core without corrupting its cellaring potential.  This is the final step before release. 

Steve’s favourite food pairing; freshly caught flathead, garfish, whiting or if you live in the top end Barramundi, lightly dusted in flour and pan fried in hot organic sunflower or olive oil and seasoned with flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper. 

For those in a hurry, reach for a few oysters or prawns and dress with a squeeze of fresh lemom.  Vegetarians and vegans, enjoy our Riesling with a soft cheese or creamy humus and crusty bread.

Click here to read more!

04/02/2022 at 11:48 AM Permalink

This is what our customers say about Stefano Lubiana Wines

21st January 2022

Had this bottle of Wine 2008 (Alfresco Riesling) at the weekend and it was absolutely amazing, Thank you.
- Jeanette

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25th December 2021

Wow! Christmas Day and have just had a Sasso 2013 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Both fantastic and wine of the day. But the Pinot Noir was the wine of the day - beating chassagne Montrachet. Few picked it as burgundy. Want to let you know that this is a absolutely fantastic wine. Just wish I had more (got the next few years…) Merry Christmas Paul

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1st December 2021

Hi there

I thought you might be interested to know I had a Champagne tasting with friends and the Stefano Lubiana Brut Reserve sparkling came first. 

I do the event every year with about 10 girlfriends, we have a range of champagnes and sparklings we taste.  We always have an expensive bottle and then a few well known french plus some cheaper unknown sparklings.  The expensive bottle this time was XXXX. 

It's a blind tasting so no one knows what sparkling they are tasting, my partner determines the order, so I don't know what I am tasting as well.  We haven't tried Stefano Lubiana Sparkling in the tasting before, so it was the first time.... and it came first.  

Although I live in Melbourne, I am a Tassie girl, so happy that your sparkling did so well.   My friends have all now stocked up on Stefano Lubiana Brut for Christmas.

Last time we did it with XXXX, it did quite well, so interesting it didn't do well this time. 

Anyway, I just wanted to share this, I know you already know your wines are amazing, but thought you might be interested in our results. 

Thanks

Lyn

note: list of 10 wines supplied and xxxx is a champage with a price tag of $330.

31/12/2021 at 2:05 PM Permalink

Spring 2021 vineyard update

The spring of 2021 has been a ‘la Nina’ or wetter than average season so far.

Healthy growth has appeared everywhere. Whilst it has been cool so far this spring, the forecast for later this week, is for warmer weather.  This will produce an even greater explosion of growth setting up an effective canopy to ripen fruit over a long growing season.

The cover crops are still in situ. Their top 30% have been mowed once.  The benefit of mowing encourages and stimulates the cover crop roots to push down further into the soil, allowing more air and nutrients to follow.  This then produces excellent conditions for the microbes that provide nitrogen to the vine.  Vines that are afforded excellent nutrition produces the greatest wines.

As can be seen in the photo there are plenty of flowers on the vines, universal across, all varieties and clones in our biodynamic vineyard.  2022 is looking like another quantity year for Stefano Lubiana.  Flowering is the next stage in the vine’s cycle and once the flowers are fertilised and set we will then be able to gauge the crop level and then take action to balance the yield.

We notice other berry crops in our garden are laden with flowers.  This year’s moisture has certainly added to fertility across all our berry crops.

31/10/2021 at 3:51 PM Permalink

2020 Fumé Sauvignon Blanc biodynamic

New release

Stefano Lubiana 2020 Sauvignon Blanc biodynamic Fumé.  In recent years our Sauvignon Blanc winemaking style has been shifting towards a morerestrained, earthy mineral, lightly oaked style.

Our first Sauvignon Blanc was made in 1998. That's 23 years ago!  Originally the vineyard was planted to both Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the blend favoured in Bordeaux, France.  We soon discarded the few rows of Semillon and replaced it with Sauvignon Blanc, making the block, 1.3 ha in total.  In our opinion the wine tasted better without the Semillon.

The new world style, or approach, back in the 1990’s was to produce Sauvignon blanc with some herbaceousness, passion fruit, green apples topped off with tropical fruits flavours.  This was consumer driven, partly by the ABC crowd (anything but chardonnay) and partly by a younger or new to wine consumers who favoured fruitier wines.

The advent of cool climate viticulture and winemaking in Australia supplied sauvignon blanc grapes that were not widely available pre 1990.  We participated to some extent in the fruity Sauvignon Blanc craze, albeit at the higher quality end,  with New Zealand taking full advantage of the trend and planting thousands of ha to satisfy the insatiable demand.

Many wine drinkers overdosed on these fruit bombs and soon grew tired of the style.  Again much like the oaked chardonnay craze that saw consumers desert the variety in droves, they eventually returned some years later appreciating and not tiring of the more sophisticated complex cool climate chardonnays that are today’s top sellers.

In the last few years, we have taken our Sauvignon Blanc back to the drawing board and have tailored it to appeal to the more mature wine palate.  Many consumers are now ready to let go of, or willing to trade, the tropical gooseberry, and passionfruit overtones for a more flinty, lightly oaked, chalky, earthy Sauvignon blanc featuring more elegant and balanced fruit structure.  Marrying such fruit elegance with subtle tannic grip further develops the style into a versatile wine suitable for a range of culinary pairings. The Stefano Lubiana 2020 Fume Features poached pear, quince, persimmon, honeysuckle & floral musk. When the occasion presents itself this wine takes pride of place at the dinner table in the Lubiana household. 

We are not reinventing the wheel with our 2020 Biodynamic  Stefano Lubiana fume Sauvignon Blanc instead we have readjusted the style to suit our customer base our aging vines and our exceptional Sauvignon Blanc vineyard site.

The Loire Valley in France is world renowned for its exceptional quality Sauvignon Blancs, some selling for A$60-100.  It is a more complex wine style, they have been making for centuries.  France grows 35,000 ha of Sauvignon blanc compared to 23,000 ha grown in New Zealand, with 14,000 ha grown in Chile and only 6,000 ha grown Australia wide.  Tasmania statistics, I could not find but, I estimate it would be less than 200 ha.

Tasmania offers the coolest climate Australia wide to grow sauvignon blanc to its full potential, thanks to our latitude.  Sauvignon Blanc is a late ripener, therefore the longer it hangs on the vine, the more flavour it gathers.  It is then up to the winemaker to use their skill to gently process the grapes, match the wine to quality oak (large format lightly toasted, in our case) that will not dominate but support the structure, and ensure the overall silhouette and winemaker’s contributions are true to the grape’s terroir.

13/10/2021 at 11:43 AM Permalink

Buon Gusto Mixed allocation tasting notes

13/10/2021 at 10:04 AM Permalink